Thursday, April 7, 2011

You can visit Alexandria

The second largest city in Egypt, Alexandria, known as "The Pearl of the Mediterranean", has an atmosphere that is more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern; its ambience and cultural heritage distance it from the rest of the country although it is actually only 225 km. from Cairo.







History of the city:
Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC, Alexandria became the capital of Graeco-Roman Egypt, its status as a beacon of culture symbolized by Pharos, the legendary lighthouse that was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The setting for the stormy relationship between Cleopatra and Mark Antony, Alexandria was also the center of learning in the ancient world. But ancient Alexandria declined, and when Napoleon landed, he found a sparsely populated fishing village.
From the 19th century Alexandria took a new role, as a focus for Egypt's commercial and maritime expansion. This Alexandria has been immortalized by writers such as E-M- Forster and Cavafy. Generations of immigrants from Greece, Italy and the Levant settled here and made the city synonymous with commerce, cosmopolitanism and bohemian culture.
Alexandria is a city to explore at random. It's as important to enjoy the atmosphere as it is to see the sights.
Dinocrates built the Heptastadion, the causeway between Pharos and the mainland. This divided the harbors into the Western and Eastern. The Eastern harbor was really where the old harbor from the Middle Ages was located.
Of modern Alexandria, the oldest section is along the causeway which links what was once Pharos island with the mainland and includes the districts of Gumrok (the oldest dating to about the 16th century and known as the customs district) Anfushi, and Ras el-Tin (Cape of Figs). The latter two districts date to about the period of Mohammed Ali (1805-49). Collectively, these districts are known to westerners as the Turkish Quarter. They have had a number of ups and downs over the years, particularly due to the plague during the 17th century. The area forms somewhat of a T-shape, dividing the Eastern Harbor from the Western Harbor.
This section of Alexandria is known to us more from books then what we may actually see in the area. Where the Pharos Lighthouse once stood, is now occupied by the Fort of Quit Bay out on the area that circles up around the top of Eastern Harbor forming the eastern section of the top of the T. Heading south from the Fort of Quit Bay, we come to the stunning Abu El-Abbas Mosque. West of this is the Anfushi Tombs, some of the oldest in Alexandria and well worth a visit.
Heading towards the mainland past the Abu El-Abbas Mosque and connecting with Shari Faransa street leads to the Suq district. Just before entering the district one finds the interesting little Terbana Mosque. In the Suq district, one finds Alexandria's only surviving wakalas, which is a part of the El-Shorbagi Mosque complex founded in 1757. This was also the area where Alexandria's Jewish community lived, but most have now migrated to Israel. Different areas have specialized in different goods and one may find all manner of products from jewelry to Medicinal plants (Suq El-Magharba) to Bedouin clothing (Suq El-Libia).
Continuing down Faransa one passes Midan Tahrir and the street turns into Salah Salem, and finally connects with Al-Horreya.
However, Midan Tahrir, popularly called Manshiya, has considerable history. The areas was once home to Diplomats and known as Place Des Consuls, but after the statue of Mohammed Ali was placed here in 1873 the name was changed to Midan Mohammed Ali. In 1882, it was bombarded by the British and all but destroyed. The Alexandria Stock Exchange was once located here, and it was from the midan that Nasser announced the nationalization of the Suez Canal.
The street named Al-Horreya (Tariq Abd el-Nasser) which transverses the area from east to west was in ancient times the Canopic Way with the Gate of the Sun at the eastern end and the Gate of the Moon at the western end. At that time, there were probably columns lining the road. The main north to south street, now Sharia el-Nebi Daniel, ran from the East Harbor all the way to Lake Harbor on Lake Mariout.
Just south of the intersection of Al Horreya and el-Nebi Daniel was the site traditionally thought to be the burial place of Alexander the Great, but that has not been located, and may in fact be beneath the Mosque of Nebi Daniel or in a nearby Greek necropolis. The famous Alexandria Library was probably nearby. However, the only real antiquities site that can be viewed in the area is Kom el-Dikka, a small Roman theater that has been excavated. Nearby is also a bath house of the era. To the east is the Antiques District where dealers sell antiquities, books, old weapons and furniture. Here is also the Attarine Mosque, which was once a church dedicated to Athanasius.
Further south along the tramway is Pompey's pillar and nearby the Catacombs of Kom ash-Shuqqafa.
Wondering along el-Nebi Daniel are several other attractions, including the French Cultural Center, and nearby the Eliahu Hanabi Synagogue, which is the only active synagogue in Alexandria and houses the combined treasures of the seven former Alexandrian synagogues.
Back to the north on el-Nebi Daniel, next to the harbor where Ramla station is now located at Midan Saad Zaghlul was the location of the Caesareum. This was a magnificent temple begun by Cleopatra for her lover Antony and subsequently completed by their enemy Octavian, though none of this remains in situ. Nearby is the well known Cecil Hotel, built in 1930, Smerset Maugham stayed here, as did Winston Churchill, and the British Secret Service one maintained a suite for their operations.
Midan Saad Zaghlul is the entertainment heart and nerve center of Alexandria. here, as terminals and train stations provide a backdrop for cinemas, restaurants and night spots. It was the setting of Lawrence Durrell's Alexandria Quartet and the famous Alexandria coffee houses. The square is dominated by an impressive monument dedicated to Saad Zaghlul, a former national leader.
The Greek Quarter and Bab Rosetta District
Back on Al Horreya heading east, as we pass the Graeco-Roman Museum (a notable museum well worth a visit) we move into the Greek Quarter of Alexandria, one of the most beautiful residential districts. The wonderful old villas include the massive Miclavez building, which is opposite the Town Hall and nearby the Adda Complex built in 1929. This is where the wealthy Greeks lived at the turn of the century, and the streets are still named after the Ptolemic, Pharaonic, Abbasid and Fatimid rulers. Further east is the Greek Orthodox patriarchate and the Church of St. Saba.
Further east, Al Horreya opens into a beautiful green area known as the Shallalat Gardens, which was once the fortification of Bab Rosetta. But in 1905, Alexandria created a garden area here with waterfalls and the only Alexandria cistern which can be viewed. This cistern is an example of those which once dotted Alexandria providing fresh water to her inhabitants.
The Corniche
The Corniche is dotted with Casinos built on stilts and rows of beach huts. The avenue here did not always exist, for until the 20th century, the areas remained fortified by a five mile long wall with towers which had protected the city since the 13th Century. In the early 1900s, a strip of land with a width of about 100 years was reclaimed from the sea, and the area became popular with beach goers. That is no longer the case, but it remains a lively area of Alexandria.
On the western end of the Corniche near Silsila where the New Alexandria Library is being constructed is the Shatby Tombs which are said to be the oldest in Alexandria. Nearer the San Stefano, area across the tram tracks is also the Royal Jewelry Museum.
Catacomb of Kom El-ShuqafaThe catacomb of Kom El-Shuqafa (Shoqafa, Shaqafa) is one of Alexandria's most memorable monuments. Identified as "a tour-de-force of rock-cut architecture which would be remarkable in any period," the Great Catacomb defies comprehensible description. Its vast, intricately decorated interior spaces cut at so great a depth into the rock present an enormity of experience outside the normal human realm and tell us of a level of technological expertise equaling enterprises of A side sketch of the Catacombs of Kom el-Shuqafa modern subways and tunnels while far surpassing them in aesthetic response.
Kom El-Shuqafa is the Arab translation of the ancient Greek name, Lofus Kiramaikos, meaning "Mound of Shards" or "Potsherds." Its actual ancient Egyptian name was Ra-Qedil.
These catacombs date back to the late first century AD. Kom El-Shuqafa lies on the site where the village and fishing port of Rhakotis, the oldest part of Alexandria that predates Alexander the Great, was located.
On its western side, as usual in Egyptian funerary practices, lies its “City of the Dead.” However, while the ancient Egyptians mummified their dead, the Hellenistic custom was for cremation. This area used to contain a mound of shards of terra cotta which mostly consisted of jars and objects made of clay. These objects were mostly left by those visiting the tombs, who would bring food and wine for their consumption during the visit. However, they did not wish to carry these containers home from this place of death.
Excavations of the site began in 1892 but no catacombs were actually found until Friday, September 28th, 1900 when according to tradition, by mere chance, a donkey pulling a cart fell through a hole in the ground and into one of the catacombs.

The Necropolis is of the catacomb type that was widespread during the first three centuries in Italy (Rome). This type of catacomb was usually limited to the burial of deceased Christians. It was, to the believers of this new religion, an asylum where they could be safe from the injustice of the emperors. In the tombs below the cathedral of Saint Sebastian in Rome we unique decorations inside Kom el-Shuqafa can find catacombs in the form of streets stretching for many miles, with tombs to their sites. However, in the Necropolis of Kom el-Shuqafa there is no trace of Christian burials.
The catacombs are unique both for their plan and for its decoration which represents a melding and mixing of the cultures and traditions of the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. It was a place where people seemed to have a talent for combining rather than destroying cultures. Though the funerary motifs are pure ancient Egyptian, the architects and artists were clearly trained in the Greco-Roman style. Here then, we find decorations related to ancient Egyptian themes, but with an amazing twist that makes them quite unlike anything else in the world.
Scholars believe that the catacombs at first may have served only one wealthy family that still practiced the ancient Egyptian pagan religion. However, they were expanded into a mass Looking down the light well burial site, probably administered by a corporation with dues-paying members, perhaps because of its pagan heritage. This theory could explain why so many chambers were hewn from the rock. In its final stage, the complex contained over one hundred loculi and numerous rock-cut sarcophagus tombs.
These tombs represent the last existing major construction related to the ancient Egyptian religion. This was also the case in the Pankrati tomb in Rome. They dug out loculi and then closed the openings with marble and limestone. The name was written on the tomb in a different way from Italy, depending on the artistic style used. At Kom El-Shuqafa there is a mixture between Roman and the Pharaonic arts, which is not only represented in the architecture of the tomb, but also its engraving and statues. This mixture may have perhaps resulted because the opportunity in both Egypt and Alexandria gave rise to the mixture of the Greek and Romans arts with the Pharaonic art of Egypt which was prevalent in Egypt since Alexander's feet trod its grounds. Or perhaps it was the desire of the tomb's owner that the artist realize a mixture between both the Roman and Egyptian arts as was the effect of religious scenes shown in the drawings, and effect of Roman and Egyptian religions
El- Montaza
This area along the coast about 15 miles east of Alexandria’s old district along the Corniche is where many of the modern Alexandrian hotels are located, as well as one of the elegant heritage hotels. Khedive Abbas II built the Salamlik as a residence. Here also is the magnificent Montaza Palace.
Montaza complex:
This 115 acre complex is surrounded by great walls from the south, east and west, and with the beach on its north side. This area used to belong to the Mohamed Ali family that ruled Egypt from the mid 19th century until 1952. The construction was started in 1892 by King Abbas II, who built a large palace inside the complex called the Salamlek. In 1932, King Fuad built a larger palace and called it the Haramlik. His son, King Farouk, built a bridge to the sea to act as a water front. The rest of the 115 acres is nothing but beautiful gardens. Palm trees and gazelles cover the area. This is a wonderful spot to enjoy the beauty of Alexandria.
The Library of Alexandria
The New Library of Alexandria, the New Bibliotheca Alexandrina, is dedicated to recapture the spirit of openness and scholarship of the original Bibliotheca Alexandrina. It is much more than a library.
The Revival of the Ancient Library of Alexandria:
At the meeting point of the three continents, Asia, Africa and Europe, Egypt has been the cradle of civilizations since ancient times. The ancient city of Alexandria was at the beginning of the third century B.C. the birthplace of the great plan to build a library: the Bibliotheca Alexandria. But a fire, which ravaged Alexandria, destroyed the library, this vast storehouse of learning. The Egyptian Government, in co-operation with UNESCO, has decided to resurrect the old dream to endow this part of the world with an important focal point for culture, education and science.
Location:
The Bibliotheca Alexandria lies alongside the University of Alexandria Faculty of Arts campus, in Shatby, and overlooks the Mediterranean Sea along a substantial portion of its northern frontage.
At Selsela, it is almost the same site of the ancient library-museum complex within the Royal Quarter, in the district then known as the Brocheum, where a few remains of the Graeco-Roman civilization were recently uncovered and later will be displayed in the Library museum.
Design of the New Building:
The design concept is a simple circle inclined towards the sea, partly submerged in a pool of water, the image of the Egyptian sun which in contemporary terms will illuminate the world and human civilization.
Moreover, an inclined roof allows indirect daylight and a clear view of the sea. Designed as an arrow, an elevated passageway links the University of Alexandria to the Corniche. The building is surrounded by a wall clad with Aswan granite engraved with calligraphic letters and representative inscriptions from the world civilizations.
This timely conceptualization symbolizes a unique form cum fiction which combines the heritage of the region with the intended revival of cultural radiance to reach the corners of the universe.
Facts and Figures:
The cost of this ambitious international project is estimated at US $172 million. This does not include the cost of the land, the Conference Center, the Consultant fees and GOAL's budgets that were donated by the Government of Egypt and are worth US $182 million.
The Library construction cost is estimated at US $121 million, while both book collections and periodicals are expected to cost about US $31 million and the cost of equipment about US $20 million.
Total site area: 40,000 m²
Total Library floor areas: 69,000 m²
No. of floors: 13
No. of seats: 3500
No. of volumes: 4 million
No. of maps: 50,000
No. of manuscripts: 100,000
No. of electronic applications: 30 data bases
No. of rare books: 10,000
No. of electronic materials: 100 CD-ROM titles
No. of musical media: 200,000 disks/tapes
No. of audio-visual material: 50,000 disks/videos
No. of staff: 578
Complex includes: Conference Center (3200 seats), science museum, planetarium, school of information studies, calligraphy institute and museum.
Pompey's Pillar 
An approximately 25m red Aswan granite column with a circumference of 9m was constructed in honor of the Emperor Diocletian. Originally from the temple of the Serapis, it was once a magnificent structure rivaling the Soma and the Caesareum. Nearby are subterranean galleries where sacred Apis bulls were buried, and three sphinxes. After his defeat by Julius Caesar in the civil war, Pompey fled to Egypt where he was murdered in 48 BC; mediaeval travelers later believed he must be buried here, and that the capital atop the corner served as a container for his head. In fact, the pillar was raised in honor of Diocletian at the very end of the 4th century. Diocletian captured Alexandria after it had been under siege. The Arabs called it "Amoud el-Sawari", Column of the Horsemen. The Pillar is the tallest ancient monument in Alexandria.
The Fortress of Qaytbay 
Following in the footsteps of other caliphs, princes and sultans of Islamic small states in Egypt, sultan Qaytbay visited Alexandria several times and gave special attention to its fortification by building fortifications, walls, gates, and towers. This attitude was due to the fact that the Ottoman rulers were threatening Egypt and endeavoring to put it under their control, and hence constituted a menace not only to Egypt but to the whole region as well.
The ancient lighthouse of Alexandria (Pharos) had entirely collapsed as a result of a major earthquake in 702 Hegira (1303 A.D). Qaytbay ordered the construction of his fortress or citadel on that particular spot and it has been restored recently by the Egyptian Supreme Council for Antiquities. The construction of this citadel (fortress) started in 882 Hegira (1477A.D) and was completed in 884 Hegira (1479 A.D) on the northern edge of the Ras- al-Tin Island, towering above the eastern port of Alexandria.
The citadel consists of external and internal walls and the main tower. The external walls surround the citadel from all four directions. They have defensive towers that rise as high as the level of the walls, with the exception of the eastern wall. They also have defensive arrow slits. A considerable distance separates the outer walls from the internal ones where the barracks and the store houses for arms and weapons are found.
The main tower stands in the inner courtyard, in the form of a huge square fort 17meters high. It consists of three floors, with semicircular towers in each of the four corners, ending on top with protruding parapes with double level arrow slits. The first floor holds the mosque, a courtyard, four Iwans, passages and chambers where the soldiers moved during defensive operations. The second floor has a special large room (maq'ad) for sultan Qaytbay, to allow him to watch the ships coming through the harbor. He could see war ships and other vessels at a one day sailing distance from the port of Alexandria. This room is covered by a cross vault. It is worthy of mention that the citadel once had a minaret for the mosque, but it has collapsed. The citadel itself was restored by Sultan Al-Ghuri.
The Roman Theatre (Odium) 
The Roman Theatre was built in the 4th century AD; it remained in use until about the 7th century AD, or about the time of the Arab invasion. It was discovered during the 1960s when a government building was planned for this location over the ruins of a Napoleonic fort that had earlier been destroyed. However, during excavation, the ruins of the Roman theatre were found. A Polish team was responsible for its excavation. It was the first, and so far only one discovered in a city which, according to an ancient source, once had four hundred of them.
It is in a general area called Kom el Dikka today, which has become the city's largest archaeological park. According to tradition, it is so named because, in the 19th century when the historian el Newery came to Alexandria, he found a small sand hill that looked like a Dikka, a type of seat. The sand was actually excavation from the Mahmoudia canal, after it was dug out during the reign of Mohammed Ali. At that time, it was popular among children as a playground. At that time, there was also a water tap built by the British here as a public source of water. Another tradition holds that this was the location of a court with ten judges and that Dikka is a Greek term referring to the number ten.
Besides the theatre at Kom el-Dikka, there are also Roman baths and a whole residential quarter dating from the Ptolemaic through the Medieval Period. Near the theatre one may find cisterns, a gymnasium and ancient Roman streets, along with a large villa dating to the reign of Hadrian that is now called the "Villa of the Birds", due to the magnificent mosaic floor in the main room depicting various species of birds. Excavations continue here today.
The theatre has seating, elevated towards the rear part, in the shape of a horseshoe. There are thirteen rows of white and gray marble seats, except for the first row which was made of red granite to give strength to the structure. However, at one time there were between sixteen and seventeen rows of seats. The marble was imported from Europe (probably Italy). It could hold up to 700 to 800 people. The step seating of the Roman Theatre is built upon a thick limestone wall with another brick wall surrounding that one. The two walls are linked.
Many of the seats are numbered with Greek lettering so that the seats could actually be assigned. However, the seats are not numbered in order, and some are not numbered at all. This could have been a result of the earthquake in 535 AD, causing the theatre to be rebuilt, and perhaps even converted to a different use.
Before the horseshoe is a stage that still retains some of its mosaic paving, which is in fairly good condition, and there even seems to be, and probably was an orchestra pit. However, more recent studies have suggested that the mosaics may be of later date, from a villa that was apparently built on this location in a period postdating the theatre.
There are passages and rooms beneath the theatre seats where actors were stationed before their performance, where they could change clothes, and also for use as to store equipment.
At one time, the structure was almost certainly covered over by a roof supported by huge columns, mostly to protect the people from the heat and rain. It may have aided the acoustics. We believe that the roof was perhaps made of red bricks in the form of a dome. The columns were also made of marble, but according to some sources this marble was imported from Asia Minor. However, the ceiling was destroyed by the major earthquake that struck Alexandria in the 6th century AD.
Indeed, in the center of the section thought perhaps to have been for the orchestra one will find a circle of grey stones. Standing here, one may discern a notable echo from the seating that is not otherwise present.
Walking about the Roman Theatre, one notices that it seems very well preserved. One also will notice a number of stone columns and capitals that once supported its domes. There are also a number of old Roman decorations, including Byzantine icons. It consists of a cross inside a circle.
The cross of course is the standard icon of Christianity, while the circle is the circle of light on the face of Christ. There are also some Greek inscriptions that proclaim a political victory, which indicates that the theatre was used for political meetings during the Byzantine period.

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